Week 11 · 6th June to 12th June

Alice and a big red rock

Day 71 – 6th June

I was keen to cycle to Simpsons gap today but Dean wasn’t so sure about ‘boring plain road easy cycling’ so we compromised and rode a few kms out of town to the Cultural Precinct. Museums, sculptures and art gallaries etc … had a look around for a while and some of the paintings were good but to be honest, it didn’t light my fire that much and Dean’s didn’t even spark! Cycled back into town and caught the tail end of the markets before chilling with coffees and emailing for a while. Bit of a none day today – saving up for the ‘West Macs’ tomorrow.

Day 72 – 7th June

Whenever a mechanic says “it’ll be finished in an hour”, punch him then take your business elsewhere. We raised at 6:30ish in order to take Max to the doctors for 7:45. He needed the shackles on the front suspension replacing and regreasing. After a bit of pressure, they (the mechanics) finally had him ready by 1pm. Meanwhile, Orla and I mozied around town and bought brekkie and lunch for a change.

So, by the time we had filled up, hunted some supplies, and got on the road it was well into the afternoon. Today we were heading to the ‘West Macs’, the West MacDonald Ranges, the site of yet more gorges, waterholes and chasms.

We had a quickish look and climb of Simpsons gap and then drove to Standley chasm but didn’t go in. At $6.50 a pop, we decided to just preserve our memories of Echidna Chasm and miss it out. On then to Ellery Ck Big Hole to camp for the night.

Decent campsite complete with our own fire pit and wood that someone had kindly left behind. Got chatting to a family (Mother, Father, Son and Uncle) and cracked open my birthday bottle of Chianti. Turned out the Uncle was a plastic Irishman whose mother was English.

The West Macs
The West Macs
A Dingo in the tent!
A Dingo in the tent!

Day 73 – 8th June

Had a great day today discovering the various sights in the West Macs. First up some Ochre pits of red, yellow and white stone which Aboriginal people use for cooking, art, medicine etc. Then we spent a good few hours at Ormiston Gorge and did the walk around the pound and through the valley. Quite different scenery which was refreshing and we finished it off with a swim in the waterhole - ahhh! The walk and gorge was up there with the best of them for me.

We’d heard a lot about Palm Valley in the Finke River NP so we were looking forward checking it out. To get there though, there was some serious off-roading. We got to the campsite just before dark and decided to explore it in the morning. So we had another great campfire and clear evening.

Ormiston Pound – fantastic!
Ormiston Pound – fantastic!
And then the gorge
And then the gorge

Day 74 – 9th June

After the drive to the campspot, I was a little nervous when we set off to Palm Valley itself. The 4kms would take us an hour to complete and sadly I had to send Orla through the creeks first for fear of getting bogged midway through. ;-) I think she enjoyed the freezing cold water really. Yeah right!

However, when we finally got there, it was well worth the effort. Although another gorge, it has the added bonus of containing tropical plants including Red Cabbage Palms (you will have probably noticed Aussies are really imaginative when it comes to naming sites of interest!) Also, bein about 8am, we had the place to ourselves. As usual, we picked the longer of the two available walks (6kms) and marched around in less than two hours!

Remember April 3rd when Max spat off his watertank and the superfriendly Wayne fixed it for us in Whyalla? Well, that wasn’t the end of Max’s watertank tantrums because near the end of the Palm Valley track, and with 200kms of corrugated dirt-road to go, he did it again! To quote an Aussie saying “Bugger!” Fortunately, I’m a dab-hand with a bit of rope so I just did a ‘half-hitching, fishermans, double-reef, granny-bend knot’ and it held! My kids will definitely go to Scouts.

So, 3 hours later we arrived at Kings Canyon resort and chilled in the pool before showering and cooking a feast of veggies and rice.

Palm Valley
Palm Valley
Crap weather eh?
Crap weather eh?

Day 75 – 10th June

After a panic filled hour when I lost Dean’s hat and we emptied Max twice to find it, we finally set off on the Kings Canyon rim walk in bad moods! But the scenery and beauty of the place soon got the better of us and we cheered up and thouroughly enjoyed the spectacle of the wonderful Canyon. Ancient rock, waterholes, amazing ridges, green valleys including one called ‘The Garden of Eden’ – all in all a beautiful place. The only bad thing was the hundreds of people (especially noisey septic tanks!).

Crossed off Kings Canyon and hit the sealed road to Uluru. It was unbelievably exciting catching the first glimpse of the ‘Rock’ and it certainly does live up to all the hype. Its feckin huge! Took the obligatory millions of photos and then watched the colours change as the sun set… marvelous. More exploring in store tomorrow.

Kings Canyon
Kings Canyon
The Garden of Eden!
The Garden of Eden!

Day 76 – 11th June

Lol and Tony get married today – congratulations!

Joined the barrage of tourists watching the sun rise over Uluru – which wasn’t worth the early morning effort btw. Still, we’ll no doubt bore you with the photos! Then we drove the rest of the 15km loop (gives you an idea how big this thing is) to the climb start.

Now, Aboriginal locals ask tourists not to climb the rock as it is a sacred place. However, unlike certain parts of the rock (at the base), they don’t completely ban it. Could this be due to the fact that most (able) visitors to the rock want to climb it and would maybe think twice if it wasn’t possible? Cynical? Maybe, but when you consider that Aborigines profit to the tune of $2.5M / yr from park entrance fees, there’s definitely a reason to keep it open. As for the request not to, this could be a red-herring to deter people from climbing and therefore reduce their insurance liability! Now I am being cynical!

Anyway once you get to the top (which was definitely not easy both physically and mentally), its worth it. If only for the view of the Olgas alone.

On returning to the base, we joined a ranger talk (one Aboriginal tour guide and one white guide) which was excellent. We learnt a hell of a lot about Aboriginal life etc (and I think I formed the above opinion afterwards). Then we went to the Olgas and practically ran the 7.3km walk – phew!

The inevitable Red rock photo
The inevitable Red rock photo
Bloody steep climb!
Bloody steep climb!

Day 77 – 12th June

Said our goodbyes to Uluru – Kata Tjuta today – well worth the visit and expense! and headed east to Kulgera. Tomorrow we embark on the last adventure of the trip – another off road trek to Finke, Mr Dare, Dalhousie Springs, Oodnadatta and south to Maree. Its all on unsealed road so hopefully Max will be up to the task! We were considering crossing the Simpson Desert instead but after much map gazing and discussion, we decided to leave it for the next time!

At Kulgera we met a Londoner called Rory who has cycled (yes cycled) all of the way from the UK!!! Good laugh too so we spent the evening hearing all his tales which fired me up for a cycling trip in the future (maybe not as far though!)

Ayers Rock cut into slices
Ayers Rock cut into slices
A brilliant sunset at Kulgera
A brilliant sunset at Kulgera